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WARNING: take great care handling the top slide. For normal work the lathe stand could be left unsecured - or mounted on anti-vibration pads - it only being necessary to bolt it down if jobs were to involve high speeds with out-of-balance workpieces. An interesting point concerns the four welded-on mounting points: the one at the back behind the headstock was set flush with the stand's lower edge and drilled and tapped 1-inch UNC to take a hollow, screwed stud through which passed a levelling bolt The other three points protruded below the base, with the threaded rear bolt assembly being used to set everything up level. Stand Unfortunately the maker's stand, in basic form, lacked any form of storage, although some long-bed lathes have been found with a drawer across the central section between the plinths.
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To protect the power-feed mechanism against overload damage all models were fitted with a shear-pin incorporated in the topmost gear of the train to the screwcutting gearbox. Power cross and longitudinal feeds were fitted to all models - with a push-pull knob to select sliding or surfacing and with the engagement and disengagement by a flick-in-and-out lever at the bottom of the apron. Both models were equipped as standard with a number of extra changewheels to extend the normal threading range beyond that commonly required if these gears are missing from a used lathe, it's worthwhile asking if they have been stored separately and perhaps overlooked. On the changewheel models there was, unlike their contemporary Harrison competitors, no 3-speed leadscrew gearbox, instead a simple 2-speed gearbox was employed where a sliding double gear on the feed shaft could be moved by a lever into one of two positions to pick up a single gear on the leadscrew - and so select either a fast or a slow rate of feed (the leadscrew on Bantams is used only for cutting threads and should normally be left disengaged).
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Precaution is required when mounting new D1 accessories on the spindle nose - and it may be necessary, in order to achieve maximum grip, to re-set the Camlock studs within the backplate - it is essential to read the maker's instructions on this point if you are unsure of how to do it.Because the motor was mounted externally, at the rear of the headstock, it is a comparatively simple matter to change it. Unfortunately, chucks with this fitting are expensive to manufacture and it is often cheaper (although still not inexpensive) to mount a replacement chuck on a new Camlock backplate. 2 had a new angular-style headstock and screwcutting gearbox, but with the bed, carriage and tailstock remaining virtually unchanged. However, in each case, conversions sets were available to allow all types to cut both English and metric threads. PDF, ePub, eBook, fb2, mobi, txt, doc, rtf, djvu ▶▷▶▷ colchester bantam manual colchester bantam manual File Name: